Sotheby’s organizes its first auction and exhibition dedicated to jewels created by artists


This weekend, Sotheby’s opens its doors Art as jewelry as art, an unprecedented online auction and exhibition in New York (September 24 to October 4, 2022) featuring jewelry designed by 65 major artists of the 20th century and today. Golden, bird Georges Braque brooches inspired by Greek mythology for Louise Nevelsonsculptural one pair 18k gold pendants Salvador Dali earrings shaped like melting telephones – and dripping with diamonds, emeralds and rubies – the pieces are both adornment and art.

“These works were not made to be tucked away in a drawer, vanity or safe,” Tiffany Dubin, artist jewelry specialist and sales manager for Art as Jewelry as Art, said in a statement. . “They were meant to be celebrated on the body in a dynamic and interactive way.”

Lady Kenneth Clark’s tiara in brass (circa 1937-1938). Courtesy of Sotheby’s.” width=”300″ height=”300″ srcset=” Tiara-300×300.jpg 300w,×1024.jpg 1024w, https://news.artnet. com/app/news-upload/2022/09/Calder-Lady-Kenneth-Clark-Tiara-150×150.jpg 150w, -Kenneth-Clark-Tiara-1536×1536.jpg 1536w,×2048.jpg 2048w, https:/ /×50.jpg 50w, 09/Calder-Lady-Kenneth-Clark-Tiara-256×256.jpg 256w,×434.jpg 434w,×1920.jpg 1920w, – upload/2022/09/Calder-Lady-Kenneth-Clark-Tiara-96×96.jpg 96w” sizes=”(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px”/>

Alexander Calder’s experimentation with sculptural forms included jewelry, such as this brass tiara for Lady Kenneth Clark (c. 1937-1938). Courtesy of Sotheby’s.

The auction, she added, “aims to reintroduce these works as a defined category of art.” Incidentally, some of the works included have been exhibited at institutions such as the Cooper Hewitt Museum in New York and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

“I see this sale evolving into a department called ‘Art to Wear,'” Dubin told Artnet News. She is planning an American Modernism auction for next year, with a focus on studio jewelry, as well as a haute couture jewelry sale for 2024.

La bouche était un motif récurrent dans l'œuvre du sculpteur Claude Lalanne ;  elle a moulé ceux d'amis et de clients pour des pièces surréalistes comme <i>Claude Lalanne for the Zolotas silver necklace</i> (1975), which would represent the lips of Yves Saint Laurent.  Courtesy of Sotheby’s.” width=”300″ height=”300″ srcset=”×300.jpg 300w, https×1024.jpg 1024w,×150. jpg 150w,×1536.jpg 1536w, 090N11214_C6T4P_2_01-2048×2048.jpg 2048w,×50.jpg 50w, 2022/09/090N11214_C6T4P_2_01-256×256.jpg 256w,×434.jpg 434w,×96.jpg 96w” sizes=”(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px”/></p>
<p id=The mouth was a recurring motif in the work of sculptor Claude Lalanne; she cast those of friends and clients for surreal pieces like this silver necklace for Zolotas (1975), which is said to depict the lips of Yves Saint Laurent. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.

“The works are miniature sculptures,” Dubin said. “The acquisition of one of them allows the buyer to experience an intimate relationship with the work itself, the artist who created it, as well as a direct link with the artistic movement that she reflects.”

From a range of private and estate collections, Art as Jewelry as Art will be presented in nine chapters focusing on different art forms (such as sculpture) and movements (kinetics, abstract expressionism, minimalism).

You’ll also find specially commissioned pieces from contemporary practitioners for sale, including a rhombicuboctahedron-shaped jewelry box that Katia Luna Benai carved from wood with traditional Amazigh symbols and an 18k gold pendant of kissing angels carved by Tom Otterness. Meanwhile, Francine Ballard, the founder of the web3 emporium Metadorcreated a gold and emerald ring that looks like a geodesic dome, for sale with an NFT “digital twin”.

L'artiste vénézuélien Jesús Rafael Soto a conçu ces boucles d'oreilles en argent <i>Penetrable</i> (1968) with moveable vermeil rods, just as he created his large-scale pieces of the same name.  Courtesy of Sotheby’s.” width=”300″ height=”297″ srcset=” earrings-300×297.jpg 300w,×1012.jpg 1024w, https://news.artnet. com/app/news-upload/2022/09/Jesus-Rafael-Soto-Penetrable-earrings-150×150.jpg 150w, -Soto-Penetrable-earrings-1536×1518.jpg 1536w,×2025.jpg 2048w, https:/ /×50.jpg 50w, 09/Jesus-Rafael-Soto-Penetrable-earrings-1920×1898.jpg 1920w,×96.jpg 96w” sizes=”(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px”/></p>
<p id=Venezuelan artist Jesús Rafael Soto designed these silver jewels Penetrable earrings (1968) with movable vermeil rods, at the same time that he was creating his large-scale pieces of the same name. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.

“The works here represent historic moments of creative expression from the kinetic genius of Calder in the 1930s and 1940s to the visionaries of today, who are creating with their art what I consider to be not only today’s legacy. today, but tomorrow,” Dubin said.

Currently in a digital-only preview, the auction will open for online auction on September 23, with the jewels simultaneously on display to the public in the Sotheby’s York Avenue galleries. Hammer prices are estimated to be between under $1,000 and up to $300,000. The highest estimate is for a circa 1942 silver and cloth necklace by Calder; a similar piece was included in the Metropolitan Museum of Art‘s “Calder Jewelry” exhibition in 2008-2009.

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